1. Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, Tretinoin, Isotretinoin)
Retinoids are highly effective vitamin A derivatives used to treat acne, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. However, during pregnancy, they can – especially in systemic form – lead to malformations. Topical application (e.g., in night creams or serums) is also not recommended as a precaution.
2. Salicylic Acid (BHA) in High Concentration
Salicylic acid has keratolytic and anti-inflammatory effects and is often used to treat blemished skin. In low concentrations (under 2%), it is usually safe, but with large-area or long-term use, it could be absorbed systemically – therefore, it's better to avoid it or use it only on specific spots. Also, consider the point about photosensitivity here.
3. Benzoyl Peroxide
This strong active ingredient is frequently used in anti-acne products. Although local applications might be possible under certain circumstances, there is currently insufficient data on its safety during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
4. Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is used to lighten severe hyperpigmentation, such as melasma. Due to its high skin permeability and potentially systemic effect, it should be strictly avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
5. Arbutin
Arbutin is a brightening active ingredient that can be converted into hydroquinone in small amounts in the body. Although considered milder, the data on its safety during pregnancy is not clear. Therefore, it is recommended to avoid arbutin during this time.
6. Essential Oils
While natural, essential oils are highly concentrated with strong biological potential. Some oils are suspected of inducing contractions or causing irritation. Generally, it's advisable to use essential oils during pregnancy only diluted, in very small amounts – or ideally not at all.
7. Fragrance (Synthetic or Natural)
Whether synthetic or natural – fragrances can irritate the skin or cause allergic reactions, especially due to hormonally induced sensitivity during pregnancy. Some contain potentially hormonally active substances or allergens. It's better to opt for unscented products or those with very mild, low-irritation fragrance components.
8. UV Filters
Previously criticized UV filters such as oxybenzone or octinoxate are suspected of having hormonal effects and have been detected in very small amounts in the body. Their safety in pregnancy is not conclusively clarified, which is why many experts recommend using products with modern UV protection or mineral filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide – especially during pregnancy. With the latter, however, it should be mentioned that it is relatively difficult to formulate a uniform protection and that the "whitening" is perceived as unsightly. Furthermore, Stiftung Warentest rated mineral sunscreens as inadequate in 2025.
Good alternatives are sun protection products with modern chemical filters such as Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, or Uvinul A Plus (non-exhaustive list), which, according to current studies, are neither hormonally active nor systemically problematic.
9. Self-tanners (DHA – Dihydroxyacetone)
Most self-tanners contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which reacts with amino acids in the outermost layer of the skin to create the tanning effect. On the skin itself, DHA is considered relatively safe, but there are open questions regarding inhalation, for example, with sprays or mousse products where fine particles can enter the respiratory tract. Studies show that inhaled DHA could penetrate deeper tissue layers – which could be potentially problematic during pregnancy.
10. Erythrulose
We also advise against self-tanners with erythrulose, as a study showed that its potential for photoaging was significantly increased. Especially during pregnancy, hormones make one even more susceptible to UV radiation.
11. Mineral Oil (e.g., Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Petrolatum)
Mineral oils are inexpensive, highly occlusive ingredients derived from petroleum processing. They form a protective layer on the skin that prevents water loss – but they do so purely passively. There is no active care or regeneration.
The real reason for criticism lies in two points:
-
No genuine care effect:
Mineral oils act like plastic wrap on the skin – they seal it off instead of working with it. The skin "feels" cared for, but it is not nourished or supported in its natural function. -
Burden on people & the environment:
Although purified mineral oils (usually considered safe in Europe) pose no acute health risks, they can contain so-called MOSH/PAH/MOAH residues – potentially hormonally active or carcinogenic substances – whose residues are debated, especially with continuous use. Additionally, they are NOT biodegradable and are a byproduct of the fossil industry – which makes them particularly concerning from an ecological perspective.
In short: They are neither dangerous nor immediately harmful – but they offer no real skin benefits and represent an outdated, unsustainable product philosophy.
12. Microplastics (e.g., Polyethylene, Nylon-12, Acrylates Copolymer)
Microplastics are found in many conventional cosmetic products – not just as exfoliating particles, but often invisibly in the form of soluble polymers that improve consistency or leave a soft-focus film on the skin.
Why is this problematic?
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No skin benefit:
These synthetic polymers have no nourishing function. They sit on the skin, making it smooth. -
Massive environmental pollution:
Microplastics enter soils, rivers, and oceans via wastewater, where they do NOT degrade. They accumulate in the food chain and threaten entire ecosystems in the long term.
Conclusion: Microplastics belong neither in our oceans nor on our skin. If true effectiveness and environmental awareness are important to you, you should consciously choose microplastic-free products.
13. Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is used in cosmetic products to treat hyperpigmentation such as melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. For effective topical application and to avoid irritation, a concentration between 2% and 5% is recommended.
Applied tranexamic acid is generally considered safe, even during pregnancy, but there are also indications that tranexamic acid is not well tolerated by super sensitive skin, or there are indications that the use of tranexamic acid can lead to increased dry skin and flaking. Therefore, we do not classify tranexamic acid as a fundamental no-no, but we would like to point out that there are very good alternatives.
These ingredients are considered safe – even during pregnancy & breastfeeding
1. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, has anti-inflammatory effects, and helps reduce hyperpigmentation. It is particularly gentle and well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin. This ingredient is a true all-rounder that soothes the skin and balances the overall complexion.
2. Glycerin & Squalane – gentle moisturizers with real added value
Many know hyaluronic acid as a moisturizing miracle – but there are two ingredients whose effects are often underestimated and, in some respects, are even superior: glycerin and squalane.
Glycerin is a natural moisturizer that has been proven in skincare for decades. It draws water from the environment and from deeper skin layers into the uppermost layers, helping to keep the skin smooth, supple, and hydrated. Especially in combination with occlusive ingredients like squalane, a long-lasting care effect is created.
Squalane is a skin-identical lipid derived from plant sources such as olives or sugarcane. It resembles the skin's natural squalene (with an "e"), which naturally occurs in sebum, and has smoothing, antioxidant, and nourishing effects without being heavy. Squalane helps to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture – without a greasy feeling.
Advantages of Glycerin & Squalane over Hyaluronic Acid
|
Glycerin & Squalane |
Hyaluronic Acid |
|
|
Safety |
Very well tolerated, even by sensitive or irritated skin |
Generally safe, but can irritate barrier-impaired skin |
|
Moisturizing effect |
Glycerin moisturizes, Squalane protects against moisture loss |
Hyaluron binds water |
|
Sensitivity / Irritation |
Extremely low irritation, also suitable for irritated skin or skin prone to perioral dermatitis |
Potentially irritating in higher concentrations or on barrier-impaired skin |
|
Application |
For all skin types, also for pregnancy dermatoses |
Often overestimated as a "must-have" |
3. Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that combats free radicals and stimulates collagen production. It helps to lighten hyperpigmentation such as stretch marks or dark spots and ensures an even skin tone. In moderate concentrations, it is also safe to use during pregnancy.
Vitamin C Derivatives – the gentle alternative to pure Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C is a powerful active ingredient with many benefits: It protects against environmental influences, lightens hyperpigmentation, stimulates collagen production, and visibly enhances skin radiance.
However, during pregnancy or for sensitive skin, pure Ascorbic Acid (L-Ascorbic Acid) can quickly reach its limits. Vitamin C derivatives offer a modern, skin-friendly alternative – with many advantages.
Comparison: Vitamin C Derivatives vs. Pure Ascorbic Acid
|
Vitamin C Derivatives |
Pure Ascorbic Acid (L-Ascorbic Acid) |
|
|
Tolerance |
Very gentle, also suitable for sensitive skin during pregnancy |
Often irritating to sensitive or stressed skin |
|
Stability |
Very stable, hardly oxidizes – long shelf life |
Highly unstable – quickly becomes ineffective or irritating |
|
pH-value requirement |
Effective even at skin-neutral pH |
Requires acidic pH (~3.5), which can stress the skin |
|
Effect |
Gentle, even, antioxidant, brightening |
Intense, but potentially irritating and short-lived |
|
Pigment spots |
Sustained lightening of hyperpigmentation |
Can lead to irritation on sensitive skin – counterproductive for melasma |
|
Suitable for pregnancy & breastfeeding |
Yes – ideal for hormonally sensitive skin |
Only with good tolerance – higher risk of irritation |
|
Shelf life in product |
Long-lasting stability, even with light & air exposure |
Oxidizes quickly – usually effective for only a few weeks |
4. Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is an active ingredient that has proven promising against two types of spots often left after inflammation such as acne: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (brown spots caused by excessive melanin production after wound healing or inflammation) and post-inflammatory erythema (red spots often caused by damaged capillaries and increased blood flow after pimples). It works in two ways: firstly, it is anti-inflammatory, which particularly helps with red spots, and secondly, it inhibits melanin production in brown spots by hindering certain proteins necessary for melanin formation. These mechanisms of action have been demonstrated by studies and years of experience. A crucial point, however, is the concentration: While many cosmetic products contain 10% azelaic acid, studies and anecdotal experience suggest that significantly better effects are often achieved only at concentrations of at least 15%, and frequently even 20%. These higher concentrations are usually prescription-only, and many observe only slight skin calming with 10% products, but no significant reduction in stubborn spots. The texture of azelaic acid products is often described as "silicone-like," mattifying, or velvety, which can make application difficult, especially under makeup, and higher concentrations can be irritating, similar to chemical peels, requiring the skin to get used to it. Given the tolerability and the need for high concentrations for strong effects, for comprehensive skin improvements, weighing priorities and possibly choosing other active ingredients such as vitamin C, which cover a broader spectrum, might be a better compromise. Our Daily Dose, by the way, contains 1% azelaic acid, as we certainly appreciate the other modes of action of azelaic acid.
5. Ceramides & Fatty Acids
Ceramides and fatty acids support the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. They are particularly useful for dry and irritated skin, which often occurs during pregnancy and breastfeeding. These ingredients help the skin to regenerate and restore its natural balance.
6. Zinc, Panthenol & Allantoin
These ingredients are known for their soothing and healing properties. Zinc is anti-inflammatory, panthenol promotes skin regeneration, and allantoin helps to calm and heal the skin. This combination is particularly beneficial for skin prone to irritation or redness.
7. Bakuchiol (natural retinol alternative)
Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol that comes without the typical side effects like skin irritation. It has antioxidant properties, promotes skin regeneration, and improves skin texture, without the risks of retinoid use during pregnancy.
8. Centella Asiatica (Tiger Grass)
Centella Asiatica, also known as tiger grass, is known for its soothing and regenerating properties. It supports skin healing, promotes cell regeneration, and reduces inflammation. This ingredient is an excellent choice, especially for skin that is sensitive during pregnancy.
Please also pay attention to all ingredients that are not per se "forbidden" during pregnancy or breastfeeding, but which can increase photosensitivity and thus promote melasma formation (hyperpigmentation):
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All acid peels and also mechanical peels
-
Pure ascorbic acid


